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Houses

A home on the range

The poorest man may, in his cottage, bid defiance to all the force of the Crown. It may be frail; its roof may shake; the wind may blow through it; the storms may enter; the rain may enter; but the King of England cannot enter; all his forces dare not cross the threshold of the ruined tenement!
William Pitt, 1st Earl of Chatham

In what kind of houses do people live on St Helena?

Below: Grand Country Houses • Ordinary houses • Where do people live? • Buy property here? • Developments • Read More

Grand Country Houses

Like Britain, St Helena has its grand country houses. Built in the main for the colonial administrators, mostly in the 18th and 19th centuries, they are dotted around the island, as Read’s map illustrates (below) and are mostly now in the hands of the St Helena Government.

Examples include Wranghams in Sandy Bay (a traditional Georgian period house planned over lower ground and 2 upper levels), Prospect House{2}, Mount Pleasant, Oaklands, Maldivia House, Bamboo Hedge, Alarm House and many more.

The majority of the traditional houses on St Helena were built in the English Georgian style, but paired down in materials and detail to reflect the rather limited resources available on St Helena. The facades are generally symmetrical, with a central entrance and from 3 to 8 window bays. The entrance will lead to an entry hall, with symmetrical reception rooms on either side. They are primarily built of rubble stone and mud mortar, with rectangular ashlar pieces cut for the corners, and a smooth plaster finish. Lime was discovered on the island in 1708 but was always scarce, and mud was still commonly used as a mortar through the 1800s. Prior to 1840 houses were built with wooden lintels, floor joists and roof beams, but because of the arrival of White Ants in 1840, causing buildings all over the island to collapse, the wood components were replaced with termite-proof tropical hardwoods or with metal. Post 1840, buildings were designed with metal beams.

Houses in Jamestown were originally thatched. A petition to The East India Company dated 8th May 1717 says: We recommend that Tyles be sent for the roofs. Thatched houses are so much exposed to accidents [i.e. fire] that we think it a great mercy the Town which is all thatched has stood so long as it has.

 Mount Pleasant 

Mount Pleasant was the home of Sir William Webber Doveton in the 1800s. There is today a house at Mount Pleasant, but is not the one Napoleon visited in October 1820. The current single-storey building was reconstructed by W.A. Thorpe in 1904. In Doveton/Napoleon’s time it would almost certainly have been a two storey building (this can just be seen in a drawing by Denzil Ibbetson).

Read’s map, 1817
Read’s map, 1817

Wranghams
Wranghams{a}

Prospect House {1}
Prospect House{1}{b}

Mount Pleasant
Mount Pleasant

Oaklands
Oaklands

Maldivia House
Maldivia House

Bamboo Hedge
Bamboo Hedge

Alarm House
Alarm House{b}

Rose Bower
Rose Bower

Prince’s Lodge
Prince’s Lodge

 

And don’t forget Plantation House, home of the Governor of St Helena (and of Jonathan the tortoise) and Longwood House where Napoleon stayed during his exile here

Ordinary houses

But ordinary people don’t live in houses like these. What is a typical St Helena house like? Well, for a start there is no such thing as a ‘typical’ St Helena house! There are no housing estates on St Helena and mostly houses are individually built to a style that suits the owner. Some say that’s untidy, but be that as it may it certainly isn’t boring! Modern houses tend to be built of concrete blocks; older houses use stone. The photographs below illustrate some ordinary houses:

Stone built, Jamestown

Facaded, Jamestown

Market St, Jamestown

Unusual, over The Run

Upper Market St, Jamestown

Alarm Forest

Blue Hill

Cow Path

Jamestown

High Knoll

Hutts Gate

Piccolo Hill

 

One feature you will notice that all St Helena houses share is an outdoor seating area. Across the island it is warm enough to sit and eat outside, especially in the summer. All have mains water and, apart from a very few, electricity. Telephone and Internet are available everywhere except the most remote locations. The white tank on the roof is for solar water heating.

Home is where the heart is.
Ancient saying

Where do people live?

Look at the image below:

aerial view
{c}

Districts of St Helena

The headland to the left (Jamestown is in the valley at the far left) is Half Tree Hollow, which is where most Saints live{3}. Further along is New Ground (in the St Pauls area) and as the distance from Jamestown increases, the housing density reduces.

In Half Tree Hollow there are 563 people per Km²; at the other extreme, in Blue Hill there are 4.2 people per Km². (Jamestown has a higher density of buildings than Half Tree Hollow but many are shops and offices so the population density is only 198 people per Km².)

It should be noted that 72% of people own their own house{4}.

Half Tree Hollow from High Knoll Fort
Half Tree Hollow from High Knoll Fort

Below 2% of St Helena’s land area is used for human settlement.

Buy property here?

St Helena has no estate agents (realtors) so to find a property for sale you need to know the local market - fine if you already live here but not so good if you are overseas.

Your best approach is to regularly read our newspaper, as houses for sale are often advertised therein.

Developments

For some years there have been plans for two major housing developments on St Helena (in one case since c.2002) but so far nothing much has happened except drawing up plans. 60 homes are planned for Half Tree Hollow. Shown below is the 2014 plan for building 200 homes in Bottom Woods, in the Longwood District:

Bottom Woods housing plan

Read More

Below: Article: Solving the Housing Crisis? • Article: Writer praises reprieve for historic St Helena house • Article: A Quick Word from Our Lords

Article: Solving the Housing Crisis?

by Andrew Turner, published in the St Helena Independent 8th May 2015{5}

IKEA flat-packed house

St Helena is in the middle of a housing crisis. Currently there are many people needing affordable housing and so far, despite many attempts, no solution has been found. In recent years it has been suggested that we use bamboo and steel frame houses to create cheap homes that could be easily constructed. So far nothing has panned out. I think however the solution comes, strangely enough, from IKEA.

For those who don’t know, IKEA is a Swedish company specialising in flat-packed furniture. In 1996, together with a Swedish housing company, they designed and began producing wooden, flat-packed houses. These houses come in a wide variety of styles, can cost as little as £10,000 and have a number of benefits over bamboo and steel frame houses.

The major benefit is the cost. When the plans for steel framed houses were done up they were estimated to cost around £50,000 per house, although they ended up costing far more than that. For that money we got a house that has since been found to be unsuitable for St Helena. The IKEA houses can, as I have said, cost at minimum £10,000 for a reasonable sized home. Their flat-packed arrangement also makes for convenient use of space when shipping, lowering costs in that department too. They are also incredibly quick and easy to build, meaning that labour costs for the construction would also be down.

Bamboo houses were another option looked at, although that fell through quickly when nobody could be found who was willing to invest in the venture. It was later discovered that the island did not have enough water to supply a large scale bamboo growth. Not to mention that bamboo would only work in the warmer areas of the island, such as Jamestown or Half Tree Hollow, making them useless for the planned build sites in Bottom Woods.

The flat-packed houses are mostly wooden and are therefore considered to be more environmentally friendly than steel or concrete houses. The wood is sourced from renewable sources and Swedish timber is well known to be of a very high quality.

Article: Writer praises reprieve for historic St Helena house

By Simon Pipe, 20th September 2013{5}

A fresh call has been made by a writer on St Helenian heritage to protect what remains of its grand country houses.

John Tyrrell also praises executive councillors for refusing to lift some of the protection from Wranghams in Sandy Bay, to allow it to be sold by St Helena Government.

These fine Georgian country houses, reflecting the aspirations, life styles and aesthetic tastes of St Helena’s elite, are a vital part of the island’s heritage, and an unique part also of British colonial history, he writes.

Wranghams has in the past had some unsympathetic alterations, but it could be restored to something approaching its original state, and it is encouraging that the new crop of councillors are sensitive to such issues. I do hope that the means to save Wranghams will be found before it is too late.

His article is illustrated with photographs from a return visit to the island in early 2013. He highlights the beautifully restored Oakbank and also Farm Lodge, now a boutique hotel.

But Rock Rose, and sadly now Teutonic Hall, look to be past the point of no return. And Rose Cottage, the home of the late Tony Thornton until he was ordered to leave the island, had become so swallowed up by plants that it was not visible until he reached its walls.

This provides a graphic illustration of what can happen quite quickly to houses that are neglected on St Helena, writes John, in his Reflections on a Journey to St Helena website{6}.

Editor note: Wranghams was sold to a private buyer some time in late 2014/early 2015 and has now been restored.

Article: A Quick Word from Our Lords

By Vince Thompson, published in the St Helena Independent 15th November 2013{5}

During a recent debate in the House of Lords on the economies of the British Overseas Territories, Lord Brooke of Sutton Mandeville rose to his feet to say a few words about St Helena, and only about St Helena.

He first pointed out that St Helena is noted for its Georgian architecture but, as he put it, it is not in the best of shape. He then went on to explain, at some length, that one of his ancestors was Governor Robert Brooke (1787-1801). Governor Brooke distinguished himself by improving discipline in the army by lashing the soldiers less often; he also improved the Island’s fortifications. Lord Brooke proudly pointed out during the debate in the House of Lords, one of my forebears was a governor, and a good one.

Lord Brooke went on to say that Governor Brooke brought his nephew, Thomas Brooke, to St Helena to act as his secretary. Thomas Brooke remained the Governor’s Secretary until 1834, during which time he wrote a book on St Helena and was Acting Governor for a time.

The Brooke presence in St Helena was during the Georgian period and the architecture that came with it. Add to that the Brooke influence on the Island’s fortifications and the link between Lord Brooke of Sutton Mandeville and St Helena’s built heritage starts to become clear. However the link is not as strong as Lord Brooke would like; he wants to become more involved. As he explained and then complained, The years 1787 to 1834 spanned many Georgian years. Every time I have an opportunity I ask for details of the way to help the conservation programme. Every time I am promised the details, but answer comes there none.

He had more to say about his attempts to make a personal financial contribution to the conservation of our built heritage and how they had come to nought but I think the point he made is already adequately explained.

Laugh at funny Houses humour - LOL

Credits:
{a} Neil Fantom{b} Ed Thorpe{c} Marc Lavaud/Tourist Office

Footnotes:
{1} Built by historian T. H. Brooke, Esq..{2} Built by historian T. H. Brooke, Esq..{3} All figures from the most recent census - taken 7th February 2016.{4} Source: 2016 Census.{5} Reproduced for educational non-commercial use only; all copyrights are acknowledged.{6} See more blogs.

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